Report from the ascent of Tre Cime di Lavaredo via Passo Tre Croci from Cortina d'Ampezzo:
The expedition was part of a three-day trip with friends during the Giro 2023 and took place exactly one day after a key stage of the race finished at this location.
We started our adventure in Cortina d'Ampezzo, at a very convenient and free parking lot in the city center. However, it's important to consider that this was a weekend, and on weekdays, it may not look as rosy (information provided in the logistics summary). The planned 50-kilometer route for the first day, right after a night journey, was meant to be a perfect warm-up before the "real" mountains. In this context, the first part, which was the climb to Passo Tre Croci, was supposed to gently warm us up. In reality, it's an 8-kilometer ascent with an average gradient of 7.5%, classified as a Category 2 climb. It may not offer spectacular views, as most of it goes through forested terrain, but it does allow you to warm up quite well. ;-)
In Misurina, a town on the stage, everything was pink with banners, and the asphalt adorned with the names of the cyclists hadn't dried yet from their sweat. The climb to Tre Cime begins above the picturesque Lake Misurina (Lago di Misurina) and immediately proves to be challenging from the start. The first section, 500 meters long with a 12% gradient, shows that it won't be easy. The next kilometer is a flat stretch with a gentle descent, where a line of cars forms in front of a barrier. It turns out that entry to the refuge costs 30 euros per car. Fortunately, cyclists don't have to pay for this "pleasure." They can easily bypass the line and ride past. Then comes 1 kilometer of respite, but the last 4 kilometers before the summit are a real battle. The final 3 kilometers have an average gradient of over 13%, with long sections reaching a 16% incline. At one point, my Garmin showed 19%. Even the breathtaking, rugged, high-mountain scenery doesn't let you forget about the hardships of the ascent. Maybe if I had a 30 or 32 cassette, it would have looked better, but with a 28, I had to push hard. Fortunately, the awe-inspiring views below the Auronzo refuge make up for the climbing difficulties.
From my perspective, the worst is yet to come. Descending on a steep and winding road is neither safe nor enjoyable. We cautiously make our way down. Someone wrote that disc brakes are an absolute necessity for this descent. I wonder what Fausto Coppi, Eddy Merckx, or Bernard Hinault would say about that. :-D
We start our descent from Misurina towards Carbonin/Schluderbach, and then onto the barely noticeable Passo Cimabanche. From this point onwards, the most enjoyable section begins towards Cortina. The road gently slopes downhill, allowing us to maintain a speed of 40-50 km/h with a slight pedal pressure. We pass several picturesque hairpin turns, reaching Cortina d'Ampezzo at full speed.
The climb to Tre Cime di Lavaredo is classified as a Category 1 ascent. I wondered how it would compare to the legendary Stelvio, which is classified as an HC climb (the most difficult climbs "beyond category"). While Stelvio exhausts you slowly and is very demanding, Tre Cime simply hurts...briefly but intensely. It's not a climb I would want to repeat someday, but I believe that every true cycling climber should have it in their portfolio.
On the other hand, the loop through Tre Croci and Misurina, surrounding Monte Cristallo, is a beautiful excursion where, instead of Tre Cime, you can add the climb to Passo Falzarego.
Logistic summary:
According to the website, the parking in Cortina d'Ampezzo is open 24 hours a day, but charges apply only during the seasonal periods: 2€ for the first three hours of parking and 1€ for each additional hour;
The road surface is mostly very good, with a new asphalt on the descent from Passo Tre Croci. Only the climb from Cortina to Passo Tre Croci has some potholes in a few sections. However, there are ongoing repairs in several places, so it's likely that soon the surface will be as new as the descent towards Misurina;
The best places for a gastronomic break are: Misurina by the lake (offering a wide selection) - you can stop either before the climb to Tre Cime di Lavaredo or after the descent; another good place is the café by Lake Antorno;
At the end of the climb, there is Rifugio Auronzo with a functioning buffet during the season;
On the way back to Cortina d'Ampezzo, at the Cimabanche Pass, there is a gastronomic point with outdoor seating;
In Cortina, there is a wider selection of places for coffee, lunch, or dinner