Report from the ascent to Passo delle Erbe from Fermata di Funes:
During the vacation with my wife, we were searching for various road cycling routes. Passo delle Erbe wasn't the main destination itself; we simply wanted to go on a trip in picturesque scenery. We decided to venture into the renowned Val di Funes (Villnöss) valley, famous for Reinhold Messner.
We chose Fermata di Funes as our starting point, which literally means "Stop at Funes," located at the entrance of the valley. There is a small parking, area there, but unfortunately, there were no available spaces. We decided to drive further into the valley by car. At the very beginning, I started to regret not finding a parking spot, as the start of the valley was a picturesque gorge. After less than 2 km, we passed a sawmill. 200 meters beyond it, there is a small parking area that is not visible from the road. You need to turn left and then sharply uphill to the right. It's best to follow navigation directions.
Here we begin our journey. The first few kilometers are quite steep, with an average gradient of about 8%, followed by a gentle flattening of around 5-6%. After 6.5 km, we reach San Pietro, the village where the famous Himalayan climber spent his childhood. The peaks of the Gruppo delle Odle emerging from the valley provide an excellent excuse for a coffee break, especially since the most challenging section of the route begins just after the village. We enjoy our coffee, accompanied by a delicious strudel, at Viel Noise Caffe. Unfortunately, at the same time, construction workers from a nearby site gather for their lunch break and... cigarette break. However, we manage to wait it out until the clouds of tobacco smoke disperse and allow us to enjoy the views again.
From San Pietro, the road winds up in switchbacks, leaving the valley. On one side, breathtaking views of the Odle mountains, and on the other, a 6km stretch with an average incline of about 8%, which practically means long sections of 10, 12, and even 16% gradients. Down below, one of the most famous views in the Dolomites emerges - the solitary church of San Giovani in Ranui in San Magdalena, against the backdrop of the majestic Odle Group.
After reaching the Urban bus stop, the road starts to flatten. At the stop, at the end of the steep ascent, there's a bench where one should take a moment to catch their breath and enjoy the panorama of the Dolomites. After another 3km, we arrive at a left turn towards Bressanone. On one side, the most challenging section is behind us, while on the other, there are still about 9 km to the mountain pass. Nevertheless, we decide to keep going.
Indeed, the following kilometers pass much more swiftly as the road leads through trees, and the first rock formations appear. The landscape changes, but it remains very picturesque. After another 7 km, we reach another crossroad leading to Bressanone via Luson. There are about 3 km left to the mountain pass. Now, turning back is not an option, even though we will have to return here to head to Brixen.
The pass itself is a large meadow, without spectacular views. Due to gathering dark clouds and distant thunder, we decide to head back.
Ahead of us, there's a 20km descent to Luson. The narrow road, initially with a very poor surface, is sometimes quite steep. It's not a descent that brings joy. With relief, we reach Luson, where we enter the main, wide, yet not very busy road with excellent asphalt. We ride a few kilometers slightly uphill, around 1-2%, and then the final descent to Brixen begins. It's a good road, with beautiful switchbacks, and after a few moments, we find ourselves in the market square in Bressanone.
We enjoy a well-deserved pizza and beer, and then we cycle along the Isarco river back to Fermata di Funes. In the end, there's just a 2km climb to the car, but it's merely a beautiful ending to a beautiful day.
Passo delle Erbe from Fermata di Funes is an epic climb. 25 km with an elevation gain of 1500m is not much less than the famous Stelvio. Although the pass itself may not be overly impressive, the scenic views along the way are invaluable. The initial stretch to San Pietro is quite busy with a considerable number of cars. Above the village, the majority consists of cyclists and motorcyclists. The route we covered is a beautiful 60 km excursion. Its advantage is the possibility to shorten it and turn back to Brixen earlier in case of lack of energy or adverse weather conditions. The Villnöss valley itself is worth visiting, even if we had to return the same way. The road surface to the pass is good, but it deteriorates a bit on the descent.